Tijarafe is one of those La Palma villages that doesn't feature in every tourist guide, but really ought to top them. Set on the island's west coast, between Los Llanos de Aridane and Puntagorda, this village perches atop cliffs that plunge sheer into a deep-blue Atlantic. If you're looking for a destination where wild nature, history and genuine Palmeran authenticity coexist without any pretence, Tijarafe will take you by surprise.
Porís de Candelaria: a village beneath the rock
The Porís de Candelaria is Tijarafe's greatest treasure and one of the most extraordinary corners of the Canary Islands. It's a small settlement of fishermen's houses built beneath an enormous overhang of volcanic rock, right on the water's edge. The dwellings blend into the natural cave in a way that seems almost otherworldly: whitewashed walls in blue and white, brightly coloured doors, boats hauled up onto the rock, and the constant sound of the waves as a soundtrack.
To reach the Porís you descend along a winding road that drops more than 600 metres from the village of Tijarafe down to the coast. The journey is an experience in itself: every bend offers a fresh panorama of the volcanic cliffs tumbling into the sea. Once you're at the bottom, time seems to stand still. This is also the starting point for our kayak excursions, the most authentic way to discover this coastline from the water.
Cueva Bonita: the sea's hidden gem
Just a few minutes' paddle from the Porís lies Cueva Bonita, a sea cave that alone makes the trip to Tijarafe worthwhile. When sunlight streams in through the mouth of the cave, the rays bounce off the crystal-clear water and bathe the rock walls in blues and turquoises that shift in intensity with every wave. It's a spectacle that changes with the hours of the day and the tides, and one you can only truly appreciate from the level of the water.
The most comfortable and safest way to visit Cueva Bonita is by kayak with a local guide. The excursion traces the cliffs of Tijarafe, lets you take in the volcanic geology from a privileged vantage point, and culminates with the entrance into the cave. It's an experience that blends gentle adventure, nature and a landscape you won't find anywhere else in Europe.
The cliffs of the west coast
The cliffs of Tijarafe are among the most imposing in all the Canary Islands. Sheer walls of basalt rock over 400 metres high drop away towards the ocean, creating a dramatic, ever-changing landscape. At sunrise, reddish tones dominate; at sunset, the golden light turns the cliffs into a breathtaking natural canvas. Marine erosion has carved out caves, arches and formations that can only be seen from the sea, another reason to explore them by kayak.
From the Mirador del Time, on the boundary between Tijarafe and Los Llanos, you get one of the most spectacular panoramas in La Palma: the Aridane Valley stretching down to the coast, and in the distance the outline of Teide rising above the clouds of Tenerife. It's one of the finest viewpoints on the island for taking in sunsets you'll remember forever.
The Danza del Diablo: tradition and fire
Tijarafe is home to one of the most unusual festivals in the Canary Islands: the Danza del Diablo (Dance of the Devil), declared an Asset of Cultural Interest. Every 7 September, as part of the feast of the Virgen de Candelaria, an enormous articulated devil several metres tall, laden with fireworks, roams the village streets chasing locals and visitors alike. The performance blends the pagan with the religious in a spectacle of gunpowder, music and tradition that has been celebrated for centuries.
The origins of the festival date back to the Middle Ages and it symbolises the struggle between good and evil. The devil comes down from the top of the village wreathed in fire, while the townsfolk dash about amid laughter and shouts. If your visit coincides with this date, you'll experience one of the most authentic cultural events in the Canaries. If not, Tijarafe is worth visiting at any time of year: its quiet streets, its sixteenth-century church and the unhurried rhythm of local life are a gift in themselves.
The food of Tijarafe
Tijarafe's cuisine captures the essence of La Palma: local produce prepared simply and full of flavour. Don't leave without trying the papas arrugadas with red and green mojo, grilled Palmeran cheese (with protected designation of origin), the fresh catch of the day and marinated goat. The municipality also has a strong winemaking tradition: the local vineyards produce D.O. La Palma wines, especially fruity reds and whites that pair perfectly with the regional cooking.
The village restaurants keep to honest cooking based on time-honoured recipes. Order a vino de tea, made from grapes aged in Canary pine barrels, and enjoy your meal with coastal views that only Tijarafe can offer.
Practical tips for visiting Tijarafe
- Getting there: From Los Llanos de Aridane, about 20 minutes along the LP-1 heading north. From Santa Cruz de La Palma, cross the Cumbre Nueva (roughly 45 minutes).
- How long to spend: Half a day for the village and the Mirador del Time. A full day if you include the kayak excursion to the Porís and Cueva Bonita.
- Best time to go: All year round for the village and the viewpoints. From April to October for kayaking and water activities, when the sea is at its best.
- Bookings: The kayak excursions have limited places. Book in advance, especially in summer and over public holidays.
- Sunset: Don't leave Tijarafe without watching the sun go down from the Mirador del Time or from the Porís itself.
Tijarafe is far more than a dot on the map of La Palma. It's the essence of the island distilled into a single municipality: wild cliffs, otherworldly sea caves, living traditions and authentic food. Include it in your 3-day route or devote a full day to it in your 7-day itinerary. And if you want to take home the very best memory, book a kayak excursion along the cliffs to discover this coastline from the water.