Poris de Candelaria is one of the most remarkable places in La Palma and indeed the whole of the Canary Islands. A small coastal settlement where fishermen's houses are literally hidden beneath an enormous volcanic cliff, creating a scene that seems plucked from another era. It surprises everyone who visits and is one of the departure points for our kayak excursions to Cueva Bonita.
What is Poris de Candelaria
Poris de Candelaria is a small cluster of houses built beneath an enormous natural cave formed by a volcanic tube open to the sea. It is located in the municipality of Tijarafe, on the west coast of La Palma. The cliff acts as a natural roof, sheltering the dwellings from the sun and rain.
Historically it was a refuge for fishermen who took advantage of the cave's natural protection to store their boats and spend periods close to the sea. Over time, the houses were gradually built and improved, but they have always maintained their unique integration with the volcanic rock. Today, most of the dwellings are for private or holiday use, and the place retains an authentic charm far removed from mass tourism.
What makes Poris truly special is the feeling of entering a world apart. The houses, painted white and blue, rest against the walls of the cave. Light enters from the side through the opening to the sea, creating an almost magical atmosphere. The sound of the waves reverberates gently against the rock, and the sea breeze keeps the place cool even on the hottest summer days.
How to get to Poris de Candelaria
Reaching Poris requires a bit of effort, but that is part of its charm. From the main road LP-1, at the Tijarafe turn-off, a signposted narrow and winding road descends to the coast. The drive from Tijarafe takes about 15-20 minutes.
By car: There is a car park at the top. From there, you walk down a steep path of around 10-15 minutes to sea level where the Poris is situated. The path is partially paved but has some uneven sections, so wear suitable footwear. It is not accessible for people with reduced mobility.
Directions:
- From Los Llanos de Aridane: take the LP-1 northward to Tijarafe, signposted turn-off on the left.
- From Santa Cruz de La Palma: cross the island via the LP-3 (Cumbre Nueva) to El Paso, then the LP-1 north to Tijarafe.
- GPS can be unreliable in the area; search for "Poris de Candelaria, Tijarafe" and follow the local signs.
What to see and do at the Poris
The Poris is a place to enjoy at a leisurely pace. There are no shops or commercial restaurants, so bring food and water. Here are the main things you can do:
- Explore the cave houses: Wander through the small cluster of dwellings and observe how they blend with the volcanic rock. Please respect private property and do not enter the houses.
- Swim in the sea: The bathing area beside the Poris has crystal-clear, calm waters on fine days. It is a perfect spot for a refreshing dip.
- Photography: The light that enters the cave from the side, especially in the morning, creates exceptional photographic opportunities.
- Kayak departure point: Our kayak excursions to Cueva Bonita depart from the Poris, following the most impressive volcanic cliffs in La Palma.
The Poris as a kayak departure point
Poris de Candelaria is the place from which our kayak excursions along the coast of Tijarafe depart. The location is perfect: sheltered waters for launching, direct access to the most spectacular volcanic cliffs on the island and proximity to Cueva Bonita.
The kayak excursion from the Poris lasts approximately 2.5 to 3 hours and heads south along the coast, passing unique rock formations, small caves and natural arches before reaching Cueva Bonita. The local guides know every metre of this coast and adapt the route to the day's conditions and the group's level.
It is one of the most authentic ways to experience the west coast of La Palma: from the water, surrounded by cliffs that tower tens of metres above your head, with the chance of spotting dolphins, sea turtles and a surprising underwater world.
Practical tips
- Best time to visit: In the morning the light is more beautiful and the area tends to be quieter.
- What to bring: Water, food, sun protection, swimwear and closed-toe shoes for the descent.
- Season: You can visit all year round, but in winter the sea can be rough and swimming is not advisable.
- Respect: It is an inhabited place. Keep noise down, do not leave litter and respect private property.
- No facilities: There are no public toilets, shops or restaurants. The nearest village with services is Tijarafe.
Poris de Candelaria is one of those places that justifies a trip to La Palma on its own. If you are planning your visit, include it in your 3-day route or 7-day route, and combine it with a kayak excursion to enjoy the complete experience of the wildest coast in the Canary Islands.