Poris de Candelaria is one of those places that defies the imagination. Situated on the coast of the municipality of Tijarafe, in western La Palma, this small coastal settlement hides beneath an enormous natural cave that opens to the sea. The old fishermen's houses, built within the rock cavity, create a unique scene that seems to come from another era. It is undoubtedly one of the most photographed and surprising corners of the Canary Islands.
In this complete guide you will find everything you need to plan your visit: the history of the place, how to get there, what to do once you arrive, the best times to visit, and the practical tips that only those who have been there multiple times know. If you also feel like discovering the coast by kayak from this spot, we will tell you how our excursion to Cueva Bonita works.
A bit of history
Poris de Candelaria has its origins in the fishing activity that took place along this stretch of La Palma's coast. For generations, local fishermen took advantage of the natural protection offered by the enormous cave to build their shelters and storehouses. Over time, these structures were expanded and improved, creating the peculiar architectural ensemble that we can see today.
The name "Poris" refers to a type of coastal settlement characteristic of the Canary Islands. The word, likely of Portuguese origin, designates small natural harbours or anchorages sheltered by the terrain's orography. "Candelaria" is linked to the religious devotion to the Virgin of Candelaria, patron saint of the islands, and places bearing this name can be found throughout the Canary archipelago.
Throughout the 20th century, the Poris evolved from a purely functional settlement — where boats, nets, and fishing tackle were stored — into a leisure spot for families from Tijarafe. Some of the houses were gradually converted into summer holiday homes, and features such as small terraces, stairs carved into the rock, and water tanks were added. Today, the Poris is mainly used as a place of rest and recreation by the residents of Tijarafe, although its fame has spread beyond the island's borders and it attracts visitors from all over the world.
How to get to the Poris
Access to Poris de Candelaria is via a narrow road that descends from the main LP-1 road down to sea level. The turn-off is signposted on the LP-1 at the municipality of Tijarafe, approximately 45 minutes by car from Santa Cruz de La Palma and 30 minutes from Los Llanos de Aridane. The drive from the main road to the Poris takes approximately 10-15 minutes and, although the road has sharp bends and a steep gradient, it is perfectly paved and safe if driven with care.
We recommend using low gears on the descent, driving slowly, and enjoying the stunning cliff views along the way down. The road itself is already an experience: as you descend, the landscape changes dramatically, going from the pine forests of the summit to the volcanic aridity of the lower coast, with panoramic ocean views that take your breath away.
At the bottom you will find a limited parking area, with space for around 15-20 vehicles. During high season (July-September) and on weekends, it is advisable to arrive before 10:00 AM to secure a spot. If you arrive and the car park is full, you will have to wait for a space to free up or come back at another time. There is no direct public transport to the Poris, so a rental car is the most practical option.
GPS coordinates for your sat-nav: 28.6942, -17.9541. Enter "Poris de Candelaria" in Google Maps and the system will guide you without any problems to the turn-off from the LP-1.
What to see and do at the Poris
Once at the Poris, the first thing that strikes you is the scale of the cave. The natural arch measures approximately 100 metres wide and 30 metres high, and beneath it the houses cluster together in a harmonious disorder that invites you to explore every corner. Strolling among the buildings, discovering the details of how the architecture adapts to the rock, and photographing the textures of the place can easily take you an hour.
In addition to wandering through this unique place and admiring how the houses are integrated into the cave, Poris de Candelaria is the perfect starting point for our kayak excursion to Cueva Bonita. From here, paddling through crystal-clear waters along the spectacular coast of Tijarafe, you reach one of the most beautiful sea caves in the Canary Islands. The excursion lasts between 2.5 and 3 hours and is suitable for all levels.
The Poris also has a small bathing area where you can cool off before or after the activity. The waters are clean and calm, especially in the summer months when the west coast of La Palma enjoys exceptional maritime conditions. Although it is not a sandy beach as such — access to the water is from the rocks — the bottom is sandy just a few metres from the shore and the clarity of the water allows you to see fish swimming around you.
Other activities you can enjoy at the Poris and its surroundings:
- Snorkelling in the rock pools and the bathing area sheltered by the cave.
- Sunrise photography, when the golden light enters the cave horizontally.
- Traditional rock fishing (with a recreational fishing licence).
- Stargazing at night, thanks to La Palma's Starlight certification.
- Kayak excursion to Cueva Bonita with our local guides.
"Poris de Candelaria is one of those places you have to see to believe. When you arrive for the first time and discover the houses inside the cave, you understand why La Palma is so special."
The best season and time to visit
Poris de Candelaria can be visited throughout the year, but each season offers a different experience. In summer (June to September), the sea is calm, temperatures are pleasant, and conditions for swimming and kayaking are optimal. It is the high season, so you will find more people, but also more hours of daylight to enjoy the place.
In spring and autumn, the Poris offers a quieter and more intimate experience. The sea may be somewhat rougher on some days, but temperatures remain mild and the sunlight is especially beautiful for photography. In winter, the Atlantic swell can make water access difficult and kayak excursions are limited to calm days, but the landscape has a dramatic power that is well worth contemplating.
As for the time of day, we recommend two particularly magical windows. The first is early morning, between 8:00 and 10:00 AM, when the sunlight enters the cave at an angle and bathes the houses in a golden glow. The second is at sunset, when the sun sets in front of the cave's mouth and the sky is painted in oranges and pinks over the ocean. If you can, try to be there during one of these two moments: you will not regret it.
Practical tips for your visit
If you are planning to visit Poris de Candelaria, here is a list of recommendations based on our daily experience at this location:
- Wear comfortable shoes with non-slip soles. The rocks can be wet and slippery, especially near the water.
- Sun protection is essential: high-factor sunscreen, hat, and sunglasses. The reflection from the water and light-coloured rock multiplies the radiation.
- Bring enough water (at least 1.5 litres per person) and some food. There are no shops, bars, or restaurants at the Poris.
- If you plan to swim, bring water shoes or aquatic sandals for comfortable walking on the rocks.
- Do not leave any litter. The Poris is a natural space that depends on the responsibility of each visitor.
- Respect private property: the houses belong to residents of Tijarafe. You may photograph from outside, but do not enter other people's homes.
And of course, do not forget your camera: the photographic opportunities are endless. From macro details of the volcanic rock to panoramic views of the cave framed by the ocean, every angle offers a different composition. If you enjoy photography, set aside at least two hours just to explore and shoot.
Poris de Candelaria is not just a place to visit: it is a place to feel. The combination of history, geology, sea, and light makes it one of the most memorable spots on any trip to La Palma. And if you decide to complete the experience with a kayak excursion to Cueva Bonita, you will have lived a day you will hardly forget.