Cueva Bonita is, without a doubt, one of the most fascinating natural treasures of La Palma. Located on the coast of the municipality of Tijarafe, this sea cave is only accessible by water, making it an exclusive destination full of mystery. Reaching it by kayak is an experience that combines adventure, nature, and a beauty that is difficult to put into words. For those seeking something beyond a conventional tourist excursion, this route offers an authentic connection with the volcanic and maritime essence of the island.
The route from Poris de Candelaria
Our excursion begins at Poris de Candelaria, a place that is already well worth a visit on its own. This small coastal settlement is nestled beneath an enormous natural cave, where ancient fishermen's houses blend with the rock in a way that seems straight out of a storybook. It is the perfect starting point for a kayaking adventure along the west coast of La Palma.
Before getting into the kayaks, our guides conduct a brief welcome session. They explain the basic paddling techniques, communication signals on the water, and safety rules. It is a relaxed yet important moment, especially for those who have never been in a kayak before. Each participant receives a life jacket, paddle, and, if desired, a dry bag to protect their phone or camera.
From the Poris, we paddle southward following the impressive volcanic cliffs. The water in this area is astonishingly clear, and during the journey it is common to spot fish, crabs, and even the occasional sea turtle. The calm sea in summer makes the trip peaceful and accessible to anyone, regardless of their previous kayaking experience. The cliffs flanking us rise dozens of metres above our heads, revealing layers of lava from different eruptions that have shaped the island over millions of years.
The coast of Tijarafe from the water
One of the most surprising aspects of this excursion is the perspective it offers. The west coast of La Palma, seen from the sea, is an unparalleled geological spectacle. The basalt sea cliffs plunge vertically into the ocean, with tones ranging from deep black to rust red and ochre. At some points, hexagonal rock columns — formed by the slow cooling of lava — emerge like a work of natural architecture.
Along the way, the guide points out the different formations and explains how each eruption left its mark on the landscape. It is an open-air geology class, but without textbooks: here the lessons come from the terrain itself. Throughout the route, small caves and natural arches dot the base of the cliffs, offering brief stops to rest, take photos, or simply sit in silence listening to the sea.
If we are lucky, it is possible to spot bottlenose dolphins that frequent these waters, especially in the early morning hours. Loggerhead sea turtles also appear from time to time, floating peacefully on the surface. These spontaneous encounters with marine wildlife make every outing unique and unrepeatable.
Entering Cueva Bonita
After about 30-40 minutes of pleasant paddling, the entrance to Cueva Bonita appears before us. It is a special moment: the mouth of the cave opens in the cliff like a doorway to another world. When sea conditions allow, we paddle the kayaks into the interior of the cave. The light filtering in from the entrance creates a mesmerising play of blue and green colours on the water. The silence, broken only by the gentle lapping of water against the rock walls, makes this moment truly magical.
The geological formation of the cave is impressive. The volcanic rock walls have been sculpted by the sea over thousands of years, creating shapes and textures that invite contemplation. The cavity extends several metres into the interior of the cliff, and as we advance, the natural light gradually changes in intensity, projecting turquoise reflections onto the stone ceiling. On sunny days, a beam of light penetrates through an upper opening and strikes the water, generating a bluish bioluminescent effect that leaves every visitor speechless.
The guide usually asks for a few minutes of silence inside the cave. That is when you truly perceive the dimension of the place: the soft echo of the water, your own breathing, the distant dripping of moisture on the rock. It is one of those places that reminds you how extraordinary nature can be when given the time and space to create.
"Entering Cueva Bonita by kayak is one of those experiences that changes your perspective. It is La Palma in its purest form."
The return and a swim in crystal-clear waters
After enjoying the cave, we head back towards Poris de Candelaria. The return is usually even more relaxed than the outward journey, as the coastal current accompanies us and the paddling effort is considerably reduced. It is the perfect time to chat with the guide, take some last photos, or simply let yourself be carried by the rhythm of the sea.
Halfway back, we usually make a stop at a sheltered cove where the water is especially clear. Here, those who wish can take a refreshing swim, go snorkelling, and observe the underwater life: sea urchins, starfish, schools of colourful fish and, if we pay attention to the sandy bottom, the occasional ray or octopus camouflaged among the rocks. It is a moment of absolute tranquillity before completing the journey.
Upon arriving back at the Poris, the guide helps bring the kayaks out of the water and offers fresh water and local fruit. It is the time to share impressions, exchange photos, and of course enjoy the views of the Poris from sea level before heading back up to the road.
An experience for everyone
One of the questions we receive most frequently is whether the excursion is suitable for beginners. The answer is a resounding yes. In summer, the west coast of La Palma enjoys exceptionally calm sea conditions. Our local guides know every metre of this coast and make sure that every participant feels safe and comfortable at all times. We provide all the necessary equipment and an informational session before departure.
The excursion lasts approximately 2.5 to 3 hours, depending on the group's pace and weather conditions. The kayaks we use are sit-on-top models, stable and easy to handle, ideal for both beginners and experienced paddlers. Groups are small — a maximum of 8 people — to guarantee personalised attention and an intimate experience with the surroundings.
Some practical details to help plan your visit:
- Departure times: 9:00 AM and 4:00 PM (in summer also at 11:00 AM).
- Meeting point: Poris de Candelaria car park, Tijarafe.
- What to bring: swimsuit, sunscreen, hat, water, and a sense of adventure.
- Booking at least 48 hours in advance is recommended.
- Available from April to October, subject to weather conditions.
If you are planning your visit to La Palma, we encourage you to include this excursion in your itinerary. It is a unique way to discover the island from a perspective that few know: from the sea, at the rhythm of the water, surrounded by cliffs and wild nature.